Duke Kahanamoku — American Athlete born on August 24, 1890, died on January 22, 1968

Duke Paoa Kahinu Mokoe Hulikohola Kahanamoku was a Kānaka Maoli competition swimmer, who is widely credited with popularizing the ancient Hawaiian sport of surfing. He was born towards the end of the Kingdom of Hawaii, just before the overthrow, living well into statehood as a United States citizen. He was a five-time Olympic medalist in swimming. Duke was also a law enforcement officer, an actor, a beach volleyball player and businessman... (wikipedia)

Just take your time - wave comes. Let the other guys go, catch another one.
Every day of the year where the water is 76, day and night, and the waves roll high, I take my sled, without runners, and coast down the face of the big waves that roll in at Waikiki.
Out of the water, I am nothing.
I have never coasted down a hill of frozen rain.
I have never seen snow and do not know what winter means.