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Rob Machado —
born on October 16, 1973,
Robert Edward Machado is an Australian-born American professional surfer from Cardiff-by-the-Sea, a community in Encinitas, California... (wikipedia)
We dream of the perfect wave, the perfect job, the perfect house, the perfect love, and when we get there, we dream of something else, and the journey goes on.
The best meal I've had was in Tavarua, an island in Fiji. It was just before sunset. A bunch of guys had just caught all this yellow fin tuna; they literally brought this huge wooden table down to the sand, pulled the tuna from the boat, dropped it on top of the table, pulled the skin off and sliced the tuna up.
Nothing could happen to me in the water that would make me want to go on the beach and fight someone. That's just not how I do things.
To catch a wave, to stand up - it was just life-changing. There was nothing that even came close. I quit playing all other sports - by the time I was eleven, they were toast.
I think I'm one of the most fortunate people in the world. I travel around looking for the best waves and appreciate it every second.